Fishues
There is such a lot to talk about here – but most of the issues come under two headings: sustainability and seasonality.
All species of fish and shellfish are generally available all year round, but it doesn't necessarily mean it is a good idea to eat them all year round. If we want to enjoy our fish but also to help ensure they have a sustainable future, then there are several issues - or as we like to call them, ‘ fishues’ to be aware of.
Sustainability
First, it's good to avoid the spawning season if possible. This makes sense on many levels. We don't want to eat fish that is carrying the next generation of fish and the fish can be in poor quality when full of roe (fish eggs).
Second, we always endeavor to buy quality fish from day boats. These are small independent boats that as the name suggests, go out to sea and return the same day. This guarantees that they are only catching fish from local waters where populations are more controllable. Also, because of the small scale of their operations, they are not overly depleting stocks of fish, which is what happens with industrial fishing methods. The fish they catch is of the highest quality and is reflected in the higher market price it achieves. These boats do not target fish out of season, but they do often have a mixed catch, which may include out of season fish. We don't feel that these fish should go to waste (as they are already dead) so we do sell them, providing that they are top notch quality.
In contrast, the "Beamers" - or beam trawlers - are large fishing vessels that go out to sea for six to ten days at a time and catch enormous quantities of fish from a much wider geographical area. The beam refers to the big structure at the back of the boat, from which are suspended enormous nets which scoop up all the fish. These boats can bring in fish twenty to thirty per cent cheaper than the day boats, because of the industrial fishing methods they use. Yet, there are a number of major drawbacks. First of all, they fish indiscriminately and while they may target large shoals of a particular species they will catch anything that comes into the nets, which leads to a high discard rate (unwanted fish thrown back dead). Secondly, the sheer scale of the operation means that whole populations can be devastated. Lastly, the fish they catch has to be put on ice to preserve freshness, which means by the time you buy the fish (usually in the supermarkets who enjoy the lower cost of this fishing method) it has been on ice for anything up to two weeks. If a fish is iced for long enough it starts losing the texture of the flesh, the skin won't crisp up and the flavour leeches out. Even if you're not concerned about the ethics of the catch, you'll certainly notice the difference in quality.
Sustainability is a very difficult and complicated issue and will be forever changing as recent problems with cod and mackerel have highlighted. Being a small shop that specializes in fish, we feel we try to offer the best we can source, with care for our oceans and future generations of fish stocks, but hopefully helping to raise awareness of the constant issues surrounding eating fish responsibly.
MSC stands for Marine Stewardship Council. MSC certification confirms that the fishery is well-managed and is sustaining resources and livelihoods for future generations. If you buy fish that is MSC certified, it means it has been caught with methods that meet the world’s most recognised benchmark for sustainability.
All of our fish from the Shetland Isles is MSC certified.
Seasonality
Seasonality is also a complicated issue, because certain fish may be in season in some places but not in others. For example, at the time of writing, plaice is plentiful in our waters in the winter but in the North Sea, catches are restricted to help preserve stocks. Red mullet has been arriving early in spring and mackerel and sardines have been arriving later and later in the West Country and peaking in the late summer and autumn months. The situation is constantly changing and the best way to keep up to date is to check out www.fishonline.org and www.cornwallseafoodguide.org.uk
On a lighter note, seasonality is a joy – it’s all about enjoying wild fish at its peak.
Fish is one of the last true wild foods – why would you not want to preserve this treasure by eating responsibly sourced fish in season at its best?
